Installing a QD Sling Mount on the Benelli M4 T-Pro (70132) with the 80199 QD Cup
In this hands-on guide I demonstrate how to install a QD sling mount on the Benelli M4 T-Pro / 70132 collapsible stock using the Benelli 80199 QD cup. I cover safe workspace setup, drilling for a precise fit (end mill vs. 11 mm bit), and threading the cup so your QD locks in tight. If you’re building or upgrading a Benelli M4/M1014, this walkthrough helps you choose the right parts, avoid common mistakes, and achieve a professional, durable rear sling attachment.
00:00 – What I’m installing: QD on the Benelli M4 T-Pro (70132)
00:31 – Removing the butt pad & quick safety notes
00:56 – The parts: Benelli 80199 QD cup + what you need
01:23 – Where to drill & why precision matters
02:00 – Vise setup for a steady, safe workspace
02:48 – End mill method: slow, controlled, clean hole
03:42 – Switching to 11 mm drill bit (pros/cons)
04:43 – Finishing the bore & protecting the opposite wall
06:10 – Installing and threading the 80199 cup
06:33 – Final fit check: rock-solid QD, no wobble
07:19 – Can you run cups on both sides? Notes & options
08:59 – My recommended approach & tool tips
09:16 – Wrap-up: questions, support, and next videos
I open by explaining that I’m installing a QD sling mount on the Benelli M4 T-Pro / 70132 European-style collapsible stock. I’ve already removed the butt pad with a Phillips screwdriver. The key component is the Benelli 80199 QD cup, which includes the QD interface and the threaded cup that bites into the stock. This cup is not always easy to find, but we stock it periodically.
I show the internal cavity of the 70132 stock and explain why a precise, clean hole is critical: you want strong, even sidewalls for the cup to cut threads and seat square. I discuss two tool paths. First, the end mill approach: it’s slower but offers excellent control and helps prevent the bit from walking or widening the hole. Second, the 11 mm drill bit approach: it removes material very quickly but is harder to control, so it’s easier to over-enlarge the opening or accidentally contact the opposite wall.
After securing the stock in a vise for stability, I begin with the end mill to establish the bore. When progress slows, I carefully switch to an 11 mm bit to finish the opening—keeping the cut centered and avoiding breakthrough into the opposite side. With the hole complete, I seat the 80199 QD cup and use a hex wrench to drive it, letting the cup form its threads in the plastic. The result is a rock-solid, wobble-free QD interface that sits cleanly and securely.
I note that, in theory, you could install a cup on both sides if you have two 80199 kits, but most builders prefer a single side based on handedness and sling routing. My recommendation is to start with the end mill for control, and only use the 11 mm bit to finish if needed. Work slowly, check alignment often, and keep safety first. I close by inviting questions and reminding viewers they can call or text me for help with Benelli M4 parts, stocks, recoil tubes, and sling attachments.